New Corteco Seal vs Volvo OEM seal (damaged during install in Nov. Note that once oil trickles down behind the Inner TB Cover, it goes all the way down and drips onto axle boot, control arm etc.Ģ. So I ordered Corteco seal from rmeuropean dot com for $9 (I also ordered other things to get free shipping).Īs it turned out, the Corteco seal ($9) is identical to Volvo OEM seal ($18) at half Volvo price!ġ. Recall in the original thread that during install, the Front Exhaust Seal was damaged (the lip folded on itself) and it was a Sunday, I had to get the SKF seal from local Napa store to get going.Īfter some 21K miles, the SKF seal leaks while the Volvo OEM seal (Front Intake) is still fine. So, the SKF Seal finally leaks after some 21K miles. For now, the Alternator is OK.ĭIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt, WP, Cam Seals, Serp. The Alternator Front Pulley spins with little resistance, so the Front Bearing is probably somewhat worn, but I will do an Alternator overhaul later, maybe at 180K or so.The SB factory Idler and Tensioner Pulleys have slight play and were “free-wheeling”, the grease dried out, and were somewhat noisy during operation, so time to replace them.I keep the old SB in the trunk as spare just in case. The SB (Serpentine Belt) with 85K on it is still OK, has hairline cracks, but time to replace.I adjusted my Exhaust to +3 degrees (Advanced) and Intake to -1 degrees (Retarded). However, if your cam sprockets are stock and have never been adjusted before, you can mark them for ease of re-installation. Do not assume that your sprockets were correct (never know the P.O. Since you will be removing the Cam Sprocket, make sure you read forum on the issue of Cam Sprocket Timing Advance vs Retard adjustment. It was quite an experience but no worry, I will show you the easy way. Front Cam Seals have slight leak, no big leak, but since I am there, I may as well replace the Cam seals.From reading Ozark Lee’s and few others experience with leaking water pump at 150K or so, and since I have no time to redo this in 30K, I put in a new Aisin WP. Technically speaking, you can keep the WP for another 30K. The WP has no leak, but the bearing has a very very slight play.The TB factory Idler and Tensioner Pulleys have slight play and were “free-wheeling”, so time to replace.The TB (Timing Belt) with 85K on it is still OK, has hairline cracks, but time to replace.My 1998 S70 with 150K had the TB and SB replaced at 65K (in 2004). 2 which shows the needle position when adjusting the camshaft belt tensioner at different engine temperatures.įor additional information, visit Belt, Water Pump, Cam Seals, Serpentine Belt… The Whole 9 Yards! A suitable temperature is approximately 20☌/68° F.Īt higher temperatures, for example with engine at operating temperature or at higher ambient temperature, the indicator is farther to the right. Needle Position at Different Temperatures: Note: This adjustment is always carried out on a cold engine. Press the camshaft belt and check that the belt tensioner needle moves freely. If the bolts holding either cam wheel had been loosened, tighten them at this time to 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.).ĩ. Press on the timing belt and verify that the indicator moves in response to the pressure.Ĩ. If the needle exits the window to the left, it must be readjusted past the window so that it enters from the right. Note: When setting the final adjustment, the needle (C) must enter the adjustment window (B) from the right. Hold the eccentric secure and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.). Turn the eccentric (A) back clockwise until the indicator (C) reaches the correct position based on the temperature of the engine (see Fig. Holding the center screw stationary, turn the eccentric (A) with a 6 mm Allen wrench counter-clockwise until the tension indicator passes the right side of the adjustment window (B). Tighten the center screw to 5 Nm (4 ft.-lb.).Ĥ. Ensure that the belt is tight between the crankshaft and the intake pulley if not, reinstall it.ģ.
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